Why should I choose TurfPro for my lawn care?
The goal of every TurfPro technician is to help you establish a thick, green lawn with consistent color and fewer weeds. We start with a FREE lawn analysis to evaluate your soil type, grass type, turf density, thatch, possible diseases and insects, and watering and weed control needs. Then we develop a plan to provide good health, vigor, and year-round lush green color. As a local company with over 30 years of experience we are confident about the quality of our work and guarantee all of our services.

Can I order services online?
Absolutely! Go to our online Service Request Form and tell us what you want or need. We look forward to hearing from you!

I have a lot of weeds in my lawn. Is there any hope turning my lawn around?
Yes. The most important thing is to identify if the weeds are broadleaf weeds or grassy weeds. Then you can start the process of restoring your lawn using proper time-specific herbicides. Results may vary from 1-2 months up to a full year, but it can be done.

My lawn is turning brown. What should I do?
Many things can cause a lawn to turn brown. Some of the common factors are lack of nutrients, lack of or too much water, fungus or insect problems. It is best to have a trained professional look at your lawn to determine the cause.

In the summer my lawn always pulls up like a carpet, but I don’t see any grubs. Why does my lawn do this?
It is common for shallow rooted grasses such as, Poa Trivialis, Poa Annua, Bentgrass or Fine Fescue to pull up like a carpet without the damage caused by insects. These grasses grow very shallow roots when they are watered too frequently. Because the roots do not grow deep the grass can be pulled up easily. Summer heat and other cultural factors cause these types of grasses to discolor in summer. These grasses need proper irrigation to help their roots grow deeper, and tend to do better in cooler climates.

My lawn gets a lot of shade. Is there any way to have a thicker lawn?
Fully shaded lawns are very hard to thicken. However, there are some grass types that tend to do better in this environment. Creeping Red Fescue, Fine Fescue and some Bluegrass varieties are best to choose if overseeding or renovating. Giving your lawn a good soil base, proper nutrients and an annual overseeding in the fall will help to establish a thicker lawn.

My lawn is not as green since I bought my new lawn mower. Why is this?
In many cases, a lawn’s color is affected by the blade of the lawn mower. More times than not a new lawn mower has a dull blade and should be sharpened before its first use. A dull blade will shred the grass instead of cutting it causing the lawn to have a dullish color and even a slight haze to the lawn.

Is there a right and a wrong method of mowing a lawn?
Yes. If your lawn mower wheels pass over the same area in the same direction each time you mow, ruts will form over time. Each time you mow, alternate the direction to reduce this problem. This method also prevents the lawn mower blade beating the grass blades in the same direction during each mowing. Remember, different grass types require different mowing heights, too.

I take care of my yard myself, but my lawn still seems to struggle?
Lawn care has more components than you might think, at first glance. For starters, you need to begin with the right type of grass for your yard. Then you need to irrigate, weed, fertilize and mow properly. In the fall, leaves need to be picked up too.

Lawns that are discolored, slow-growing, or have invading weeds or other pest problems may not be properly fertilized. Fertilizer is important for healthy plant growth and development. Because many of the required nutrients for healthy turf grass are found naturally in the soil, fertilization practices focus on the supply of three primary nutrients – nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. Nitrogen is not the only nutrient that turf grass needs on a regular basis. Lawns may occasionally be deficient in iron, and fertilizers containing iron may be supplemented. As nitrogen is applied, both root and shoot growth increases. If too much nitrogen is applied too frequently, shoots will continue to grow yet root growth will slow, leaving the turf vulnerable to problems.

I am tired of mowing my lawn. Are there viable alternatives to lawns?
Yes. It is becoming acceptable again to have something on the grounds in front of your house other than a lawn. Hardscapes, synthetic lawns, ground covers and planter beds are seen increasingly in front of homes as alternatives to the traditional lawn.

Ask your TurfPro representative about alternative landscape designs and installation.

The soil in my landscape is very hard. Do I water more or less?
Your soil type will affect your regimen for landscape irrigation, both for purposes of plant health and conserving water. Sandy soil types dry out quickly and require more frequent watering than clay soil types.

You’ll waste water on sandy soil types if you apply too much at once. For plants in sandy soil, program the timer for your garden irrigation to release water over several short periods.

Plants in clay soil types suffer the opposite problem. Not only can you get away with watering less frequently, you positively should water less frequently.

Should I have automatic sprinklers? Aren’t they wasteful?
If installed and programmed properly, automatic irrigation systems can save you money and help in water conservation. They are very convenient too, especially for those who travel.

What will aeration do for my lawn?
As lawns age or sustain heavy use from play, sports activities, pets, and traffic soil compaction can result. Compaction greatly reduces the pore space within the soil that would normally hold air. Roots require oxygen to grow and absorb nutrients and water. Compaction has a negative impact on nutrient uptake and water infiltration, in addition to being a physical barrier to root growth. This results in poor top growth and lawn deterioration. Core aeration can benefit your lawn by:

Increasing the activity of soil microorganisms that decompose thatch.
Increasing water, nutrient and oxygen movement into the soil.
Improving rooting.
Enhancing infiltration of rainfall or irrigation.
Helping prevent fertilizer and pesticide run-off in overly compacted areas.

When should I aerate?
There are many opinions as to when lawns should be aerated. TurfPro recommends that the best time to aerate with the Sacramento climate is May through July. Before temperatures rise and lawns go into stress, aeration helps open the soil for oxygen, water and nutrients to travel to the root system.

What is thatch?
Thatch is the layer of living and dead stems, roots, stolons, and rhizomes between the green blades of grass and the soil surface. A thin layer of thatch (less than ½’ thick) can be beneficial to the lawn because it helps to limit weed germination, reduce water evaporation, and protect from frost damage. However, thick thatch layers can prevent water, air, and nutrients from penetrating to the soil, causing reduced root growth and increased potential for drought stress. Thick thatch also favors fungal growth and can harbor insect pests.

Why should I deep root feed in both the spring and fall?
Younger trees burn through nutrients faster than that of mature trees. It is important to replenish the nutrients in spring and fall so that these trees can mature and grow deeper and stronger root systems.

Is there any point in fertilizing trees already long-established?
Fertilizing mature trees in fall results in surprisingly vigorous new growth the following year, resulting in a thicker leaf canopy. The foliage will also display a richer color as the result of tree fertilization treatments.

Should I fertilize my roses?
All roses are greedy feeders and like a lot of fertilizer. It should be given first when the leaves start to break out and again after the first flush of flowers is over. Roses in sandy soil may need fertilizer more often because of their fast draining soil. A slow-release fertilizer can be used to feed roses throughout the season.

My rose has black spots on the leaves, what can I do?
Blackspot is a plant disease caused by fungus spores that are spread through water drops. The drops land on the top of the leaves and look like circular black spots with irregular edges. The infected leaves will finally turn yellow and drop off. If the disease is severe all of the leaves will fall off and the plant will have to grow a new set. The quality of the bloom with suffer and the plant will weaken.

Blackspot cannot be cured but it can be controlled. It is best controlled by spraying with a dormant oil in the winter before the plant leafs out, then again in the spring or summer using systemic fungicides.